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Mabuhay Pilipino! (Long Life!): Filipino Culture in Southeast Louisiana

By Laura Westbrook

Brief Historical Overview / Filipino Heritage and Language
Social and Benevolent Organizations / Businesses
Religious Observations and Celebrations / Secular Celebrations
Dances from the Philippines
Conclusion

Dances From The Philippines
It is said that each district comprising the Philippine islands has its own distinctive cultural customs and its own folk dance, which is performed at festivals and local dance exhibitions where dances of the various regions can be enjoyed. This is a lot of dances-the Philippines are composed of 7,107 small islands! In this sense, the Asian Heritage Festival, produced by the Asian Pacific American Society and the largest annual public event at which Filipino dances can be seen in comparison to those of other Asian countries, serves a similar function. Rather than being performed in a program with other local dances in the Philippines, only a few dances are chosen to represent the Philippines, while the rest of the dances are from other countries across Asia.

The Philippine Heritage & Independence Day celebration is very different in feel, since it specifically celebrates Philippine history and culture. The event is commonly described by participants as "a bonding experience" for Filipinos in Louisiana. Family members come from other places for the event and, after Katrina, community members may return from their new homes to celebrate with their former neighbors. The most obvious difference, of course, is that the crowd is almost entirely Filipino-notable exceptions are non-Filipino spouses. One of the most interesting and exciting ways in which the event differs from other events at which Filipino culture is included is the reception given by the audience to the dance performances, described by children and adult attendees as the high point of the evening.

It is impossible not to get caught up in the great enthusiasm of the crowd during the dance performances at the annual Philippine Heritage/Independence Day commemorations, at parties after saints' day or feast day observations, or at other Filipino festivities. Dance is an important component of these, and of most, Filipino celebrations. The audience can seem to be one large, boisterous family when everyone is clapping in time to the music, urging success to their favorite suitor in la simpatica, cheering as fire and water are expertly maneuvered through pandanggo Sa ilaw or binasuan, or laughing along with the dancers when they manage a dangerous move in the bangko or tinikling.


Performers at the 2008 Independence Day Celebration.
Photo: Laura Westbrook

Lydia Alvarez, who sometimes coordinates dance performances for Filipino events, describes the "joy and enthusiasm" experienced by residents who grew up in the Philippines "whenever the traditional dances are done."

    It evokes warm memories of the laughter and the happiness one feels when there's a local fiesta or gathering in a certain locality in the Philippines. . . . There are so many dances in the Philippines, each depicting a period in Philippine history (the native Philippine dances from the rural areas, dances from the Spanish era, dances with Muslim influences, etc.). Some of these are performed in the Louisiana area, depending upon the choreographer who can teach a group of people a certain dance.

Dance was more a part of everyday Filipino life 50 years ago than it is today. In the 1970s, the nationwide movement toward cultural pride reinforced local Filipinos' determination to keep their heritage alive for younger members who were exposed to more outside influences than previous generations. According to Mrs. Alvarez, these efforts are being renewed in the 21st century:

    We have started these cultural presentations way back in the early 1970s, and through time interest for these somehow waned. I thought it would be worthwhile to restart it again. Like the leaders from before, I am very much aware of the need to keep Philippine customs and traditions in the hearts of our youth so that they will remain in tune with their ancestry.

Older community members hope that the current popularity of dance-including "fusion" dance that blends traditional music and motions with modern rhythms, costumes, and movements-will encourage the closer involvement of young people with Filipino dance. Mrs. Alvarez sums up the thoughts commonly expressed by adults and older Filipinos:

    Dance can express so many things - feelings, pride, and love for country. It can express who you are, what you feel and what you stand for. Our own folk dances and the performers are my inspiration. I'm so proud of them. . . . Everything with the dance is my favorite - the dance itself, the melody and rhythm of the music, the gracefulness of the steps and movements. I could say that our folk dances provide wholesome entertainment for the family, for both men and women, young and not-so-young, and they are powerful in upholding our culture, customs, and traditions.

Louisiana's Filipino residents enjoy dancing. Social gatherings often include free-form dancing to popular music as well as performances of traditional dances. Many traditional dances from the Philippines are currently maintained in Louisiana; three of the most popular are pandanggo sa ilaw (the dance of lights), la simpatica (a courtship dance), and tinikling (the Philippine national dance). Lydia Alvarez describes some of the most popular dances:

    Tinikling is one of the most popular dances because of the intricacies of the dance; also, the pandanggo sa ilaw where the performers dance holding glasses with lighted candles and sympatica with its playful mimicry of a lady trying to see who of her many suitors will win her heart. The bangko dance provides excitement, especially when there's danger that one of the dancers might make a wrong move and fall from the bangko. It is not unusual for the audience to cheer or to clap as an expression of the joy they feel whenever there's a gathering that brings them back to a life they have left behind.

Bangko dance at the 2008 Independence Day Celebration.
Photo: Laura Westbrook

The dances described in this essay are just a few of those maintained
by Louisiana's Filipino community. Here, the Kuratsu courtship dance
is performed at the Asian Heritage Festival in New Orleans in the
Spring of 2007. Photo: Laura Westbrook

Pandanggo Sa Ilaw— The Dance of Lights
The popular pandanggo sa ilaw, from Lubang Island, Mindoro, in the Visayas region, is routinely described as "a dance of grace and balance." Its name, which translates as "fandango with light," derives from the Spanish fandango and, like it, the music is lively in three-quarter time. Spanish influence can be seen in the traditional costume as well. The dancers are challenged to execute smooth and beautiful moves while dancing with lighted tinggoy (oil lamps) or, when special care must be taken, votive-type candles, balanced on their heads and on each hand.


Pandango sa ilaw or lamp dance. Photo: Laura Westbrook

Dancers at the Asian Heritage Festival show off their dance costumes
before performing. Photo: Laura Westbrook

Balance is extremely important-not only do the dancers each balance three objects, but having both hands occupied means that, if the lamp on the head seems to be slipping, there will be no free hand to right it. In some performances, practiced dancers will balance the lamps on the backs of the hands rather than the palms, requiring an even higher level of expertise. Dancers demonstrate their skill in managing the lamps, especially as they carry out fast whirling turns, move low to the ground, and even roll on the dance floor without dropping their lamps or setting anything aflame. Seasoned dancers enjoy sharing humorous tales of near-disaster from the times when they were learning this dramatic and challenging dance.

One couple who enjoy traditional dance, Jessie Urcia and his wife Hermie, were born and raised in the Philippines. Jessie was born in Mandaluyong, Rizal; Hermie was born in Sampaloc, Manila. Jessie moved to New Orleans in 1977 to join his brother, and Hermie first visited the city in 2000 while she was working on a ship with Commodore Cruise Lines. She settled in the city in 2001 not long after meeting Jessie. Through him, she was welcomed into the larger Filipino community. Jessie describes the theme and hazards of the pandanggo:

    What is interesting in the pandanggo is the story that is being portrayed in the dance. This to me is a courtship dance, which is made more interesting with the candles in the glasses as I help my partner balance them on her head and one on each hand.
    In one of the homes that we went to practice, the dance ended up with lots of candles splattered on the floor as well as the walls. I think the homeowners still have the telltale signs left on their walls to remind them not to have the dancers practice with lit candles again in their home!

Sara Bovard and a group of friends learned to do the dances as an enjoyable after-school activity, and now the group performs for Filipino and mixed-audience events. She says, "We have two family friends that learned the dance from their hometown in the Philippines, Amy Belcher and Luna Chardy. They were both very patient in teaching us the movement. A few of the girls learned the dance in three practices of about four hour sessions." Josie Bovard, Sara's mother, laughs, "I have a tree full of oranges in my back yard. The girls learned by balancing the soft, older oranges on their heads. For a while, we had those oranges breaking all over the place! But they learned quickly." Sara explains the challenge of balancing in the dance:

    Most of the females that learned this dance joined the group in high school. The pandanggo sa ilaw is a dance that requires balance of the candles and grace in the movements. . . . The most difficult thing about learning the dance is getting over the fear of balancing the candle on your head! There is no trick involved in balancing the candle. Once you learn the movement you attempt the balance and then the dance becomes your grace.

Sara notes a difference between performing for an all-Filipino audience versus a mixed audience, "The shock factor is more surreal from a mixed audience versus an all-Filipino audience, because they have never seen anything like this." Like many people who keep traditional dance a vital part of Louisiana's Filipino community life, Sara explains that dance enhances her feelings of connection to her heritage and of pride in Philippine culture. Her comments also capture the great sense of fun with which dancers approach a performance:

    My favorite thing about the traditional dance is that I feel like I am a part of something so great-that people can see what beauty and grace comes from the Philippines. And that our heritage really comes out when you see such an elegant performance. The funniest thing that has happened normally happens a number of times-a few of us have dropped the candles. Whether performing for public or practicing, the gasp that comes from every direction is hilarious! All we can do is keep going!

La Simpatica — A Courtship Dance
The Spanish regime of the 16th century marked a time when Filipino instrumentation and dances incorporated Western and, particularly, Spanish rhythms and motifs. Ironically, this Spanish-tinged dance incorporates a nod to anti-Spanish sentiments.

A series of Spanish-influenced courtship dances are named in honor of the literary character "Maria Clara," who embodies the virtue and nobility of the native Filipina woman. Maria Clara was the primary female character in Jose Rizal's 1887 Spanish-language novel, Noli Me Tangere (Touch Me Not), about Filipinos' struggle to throw off Spanish political oppression, which had an enormous effect on the political history of the Philippines. The rhythms and the woman's clothing show strong Spanish and Western influence, but the dances also utilize bamboo castanets and the abanico (Asian fan), and the men wear the traditional barong tagalog, an embroidered long-sleeve shirt made of pineapple fiber that is popular in the Philippines. Today, Louisiana Filipino men usually wear the barong tagalog, but may also wear tropical-weight short-sleeved embroidered shirts for this and other dances.

In the popular courtship dance called la simpatica, a very particular young lady considers four suitors, each in his turn, one of whom will become her sweetheart. As each man makes his case as to why he would be the best choice, she flirts, deliberates, dances briefly with each one, and ultimately selects a mate. The dancers are free to be as serious, playful, or dramatic as they wish, and each performance is different. When she identifies her choice, the new couple runs offstage hand-in-hand, to tremendous cheers from the audience members whose candidate was chosen, and laughter from the rest.


La simpatica dancers. Photo: Laura Westbrook

Elsie Tuazon organizes the group and often choreographs the dances, an important role. She characterizes the dance as "the charming girl dance," and discusses how it is learned and practiced in Louisiana:

    It is quite easy to learn this dance. Because we know the dance well, we take three days to practice for a performance, but it takes dedication. We practiced after work from eight o'clock until midnight. This dance is performed all over the Philippines by peasant groups, especially in Manila. Here in Louisiana we dance during special festivals and on Independence Day, and for the induction ceremonies of officers in the Filipino associations.

Jessie Urcia adds that all of the traditional dances provide more opportunities for fellowship and visiting among Filipinos, and that, because everyone who grew up in the Philippines knows many of the dances, locals are able to reach out to new arrivals by including them in dance practices and performances:

    La simpatico is another dance that I really enjoy, especially made more fun the last two times I danced it with guys who are all Filipinos who have just arrived in the States. These Filipinos have working visas and are helping the city recover by providing services as teachers or in the hospitality business.

Male and female dancers explain that the best performances are those that seamlessly combine Spanish with Filipino dance movements and steps, and that graceful hand gestures are very important because they convey a great deal of the interaction between the woman and her suitors. Catherine Moreau danced la simpatico at the Asian Heritage Festival and at the Philippine Independence Day celebration. She learned it from Elsie Tuazon, who has taught many younger dancers and is valued in the community as someone who keeps traditions alive. Catherine acknowledges that national pride is a primary reason that dance remains important to Filipinos and that she feels the importance of the dance to the audience when she performs for a Filipino group, but she also expresses feelings of joy in movement and in community with other Filipinos and with other dancers:

    Mrs. Elsie Tuazon is all of the dance group's instructor and was a dancer herself on the Philippine Independence Day; she danced the pandanggo sa ilaw. I've danced for the Filipino community before when I was a teenager, but it was a modern pop-culture dance. la simpatica was the first folk dance I learned in 2005, from Mrs. Tuazon, for the APAS [the Asian Heritage Festival coordinated by the Asian Pacific American Society].
    It's always a great feeling of accomplishment after I have performed a dance. The stress of learning the dance and wanting everything [to] be executed perfectly all falls away once you are finished and everyone tells you how much they have enjoyed watching you perform. As a half-Filipino and Caucasian American, [this] always leaves me feeling closer to my Filipino heritage. You obviously feel that you know yourself a greater amount when you do learn more of where you come from. This has to be my favorite thing about traditional dancing. Everything and anything that I do take away from it, I would like to teach my future children.

Ms. Moreau's description of dancing echoes what other dancers have said about the sense of fun with which traditional dance is approached, even when the dances are complicated or require great skill. With a smile, she reveals that, on at least one occasion, her choice of suitor was influenced by more than impressive masculine dancing, though the audience had no idea that the "fix was in."

    When picking my suitor in the dance, I always just have fun with it. I like to pick the person who makes me laugh the most. My last dance partner that I chose promised me candy if I choose him! All of my memories of dancing are equally fond and I look forward to making more. My next dance will be the pandanggo sa ilaw, the dance of lights. I am excited to be learning another dance, especially this one that I have always enjoyed watching others perform.

Tinikling: The Philippine National Dance
Tinikling is one of the oldest dances of the Philippines. Though it is known to have originated in the islands of Leyte in the Visayan Islands, it is enormously popular and has become the national dance. Several dancers mentioned that this dance has no Spanish influences, and is an indigenous Filipino dance. It is named for the tikling bird, a long-legged heron-like bird that eats rice growing in the watery fields. Though the bird is regarded with fondness, it causes its share of headaches for rice growers. The dance imitates the agility and speed of the bird as it gracefully makes its way among tall grasses, tree limbs and roots, and bamboo traps set by rice farmers.

Filipino people commonly hear two different stories about the origin of the dance. The first, and most common, is that the dance celebrates the natural environment and customs of the islands. The other is much darker—put very simply, it is that the dance evolved as a strategy for evading punishment by colonial taskmasters. According to this story, the slowest rice-pickers were forced to jump between thorny sticks held by Spanish overseers. One of the dancers pointed out that, though this is an unlikely punishment, it illustrates the people's feelings about this bitter period of colonial rule. There is no general agreement on the true origin of the dance; some combine the two stories to say that the motions of pickers jumping between the thorns resembled the bird's movements, or that the dance represents the bird dodging pursuing farmers. Some performances even incorporate a farmer character that pursues the other dancers in and out of the bamboo poles.


Tinikling dance at the 2008 Independence Day celebration in Kenner.
Photo: Laura Westbrook

Tinikling dance, the national dance of the Philippines.
Photo: Laura Westbrook

Today, in Louisiana, the national dance is a joyful ritual. Young dancers are very proud the first time they are able to dance between the moving sticks without falling, being knocked on the ankle, or "caught" when the poles come together. Experienced dancers point out that one must remember to work with hollow bamboo, rather than with solid rattan, which can be much harder on the ankles!

Absalon "Aloie" Inocian, Jr., came to New Orleans very recently from Kilid Simbahan sa Guadalupe, Cebu City (Philippines), and says that it gives him a strong feeling of pride to see the customs of home being maintained by the Filipino community in Louisiana.

    It's a totally different feeling right now when you are away from your homeland; the pride becomes bolder like you have to do everything to [remember the home customs]. But right now, as I accepted the challenge to join as one of the Philippine folk dancers, my heart as a Filipino guides and dictates me whether I'll step on the left foot first or to turn on my right next. Doing it by heart and passion highly contribute in playing it well. I was proud of dancing that Philippine folk dance [at the 2008 Philippine Independence Day celebration], and still I am! And still will be!

Aloie reflects on the particular challenges and dangers of the tinikling:

    At first, I can feel the nerve but as I go along I said to myself, "I'm in this dance floor, bearing the Philippine flag." Boost my pride, to perform more than 100%, to entertain people, to bring pride, and to wholeheartedly represent my country. And yes, I can say we made it! The proud feeling that I gained is very addictive. It's like a snow cone on a very hot summer day; you will always want to do it. . . . Since I came here, I always wanted to show to my countrymen and to let them feel my alab ng puso [blazing love] that I am proud being a Filipino. My country is my inspiration.

The technique is as follows: two sections of sturdy but pliable bamboo, about 8 to10 feet in length, are placed parallel to each other on the ground. At each end, a person who has good arm strength and understands the dance sits cross-legged on the ground holding the ends of the two poles. The poles are then struck together in time to the music. Two dancers stand to one side of the poles. After a brief musical interlude, during which the dancers become familiar with the beat of the music, the female dancer gracefully gathers, in one hand, enough of her balintawak or patadiong skirt to allow her feet room to maneuver, and the man, dressed in the traditional barong tagalong, places his hand on his waist. They hold these hand positions during the dance. The dancers may perform a waltz step, as a sort of salute to their partner, then resume their starting places alongside the poles.

The poles are brought very slightly off the ground and struck together at each first beat of the second, third, and fourth measures. The sound of the poles clacking together has the effect of building excitement among the audience as they anticipate the dance with a combination of eagerness to see the beauty of the dance and dread that harm (or embarrassment) may befall one of the dancers. From their starting positions, the dancers quickly and lightly jump between the poles, and then dance in and out of the moving, loudly clacking poles. The skill of each dancer is determined by how nimbly and gracefully he or she can move while retaining the proper form and upper-body posture. Of course, the primary concern of new dancers is not falling down or becoming entangled in the poles! Often, the music builds in intensity and speed, as do the dances, carrying the audience along in speculations as to whether or not they might be able to perform such a graceful, and fun, dance.

NEXT - Conclusion

 

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