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Bonfires
on the Levee: A Family Tradition in Ascension Parish
By Carol Gravois
The association of fire with
festival occasions seems to have a long history, and the practice
has been widespread throughout Europe. In Britain, for example,
effigies are burned on Shrove Tuesday (Mardi Gras), fireballs
swung, and barrels full of burning pitch rolled through streets
on several occasions in several places (Shuel 1985:187,192).
The old year may be burned out on December 31 in various ways
(Kightly 1986: 215), and the bonfires associated with Guy Fawkes
Night, November 5 (Pegg 1981:63ff; Shuel 1985; 185-187; Kightly
1986:130-131) and with Midsummer, June 23-24 (Brand and Ellis
1969:I,293ff; Kightly 1986:163-164) are well known. Indeed, Midsummer
fires are known throughout the European continent:
Midsummer is a time of
year which is particularly associated with huge blazes. Midsummer
Eve (or the Eve of the Feast of St. John) is a particularly popular
time for bonfires. In some places in Denmark a "witch"
is burned on 23 June in the fires that spring up along the coast,
and there are bonfires on the same evening in Finland, too, where
people stay up all night celebrating. Similarly, in Norway, the
Midsummer fires are accompanied by dancing and firework displays;
and at Alicante, in Spain, wood and cardboard figures are burnt
and bullfights held, while at San Pedro Manrique young men walk
barefoot through fires carrying passengers on their backs. In
the Wachau district of Austria . . . eggshells containing lighted
wicks are floated down the Danube. In Ireland . . . Midsummer
bonfires are still lit in some places (Pegg 1981:50151).
In France Christmas celebrations
have been traditionally associated with bonfires, as well as
with burning yule logs (see, for example, Seignole 1963:222)
similar to those of England. Van Gennep (1943-1958:I,part 7,3032ff)
notes a great variety of fires, fireballs, and torches used in
conjunction with the Christmas season in a number of French regions,
which have an assortment of names for these customs. In south
Louisiana, particularly in and around Lutcher, Vacherie and Gramercy,
Christmas bonfires on the Mississippi River levees have become
prominent in recent years as they have been brought to the public
eye. Newspapers and television stations have increased coverage
each year until these bonfires have turned into a competition
between their makers, each attempting to design and build the
most original and the biggest. As Christmas approaches, large
numbers of people become curious about the themes of the upcoming
seasonal productions. Will it be bonfires in the shapes of pirate
ships? Log cabins? Trains? What designs will be constructed and
burned this year? So many people come from all over to watch
these spectacles that policemen are required to direct traffic
and maintain order. It might be thought, given the prevalence
of the custom in France, the Louisiana practice came with early
French settlers, but Gaudet (1984:11; see pp. 9-13 for her discussion
of the bonfires; for her more recent comments, including some
new information see Gaudet 1990) indicates that according to
her informants the bonfires were not established before the 1880s
and were introduced then by Maraist priests in Convent, who were
familiar with the use of fire in seasonal celebrations in France.
The fires were traditionally built in the shape of crude pyramids
or "tepees", and it is only in recent years that there
have been innovations in form. Wherever and however this tradition
began, it has become highly popular.
While these bonfires in St.
James and St. John the Baptist Parishes have become well known,
there have been other bonfires (unknown even today by anyone
except those of the area) further north on the west bank of the
Mississippi River in a tiny, little-known community called Hohen
Solms (approximately ten miles north of Donaldsonville). It was
here that my great-grandfather, Jean Baptiste Gravois, bought
a parcel of land on which to build his home. It was here that
my grandfather, James Gravois, my father, Floyd Gravois, and
his five brothers and two sisters were born and raised. It was
also on this land that my cousins and I enjoyed family bonfires
each and every Christmas Eve. Year after year, we drove to MoMo
and PoPo's to eat evening gumbo and then charge out to the levee
to light the fire and pop firecrackers. We (the kids) would stay
out late into the night until we were called in by the adults.
MoMo would serve her deliciously rich, home-made eggnog (with
whiskey), and then those of us who lived elsewhere would begin
our trek home, arriving just in time to hang our stockings and
jump into bed. Our family continued this tradition until my grandparents
died in 1963.
Although Christmas bonfires
are some of my favorite and fondest memories, I knew very little
about the preparation leading up to the big event and absolutely
nothing about the tradition in earlier generations. In an attempt
to remedy this ignorance, I set out on a journey into the past,
interviewing my father, three of his brothers (James J. (Tuts)
Gravois, Elmo Gravois, and Lloyd (Stump) Gravois) and two of
my first cousins, Lloyd Gravois and Brenda Himel. My father and
his brothers spent all their boyhood and adolescence on the River
Road doing whatever imagination, daring, and nature would permit.
They had each other, a small number of white neighbors, a community
of blacks, hundreds of acres of cane fields, the levee, wild
horses, and the Mississippi River. Once a year they had something
spectacular, something that pulled together the rest of the year,
something that has been passed on to two more generations: the
BONFIRE. The following is a conversation I had with my father
on February 2, 1990 as he related his memories about bonfires.
Carol Gravois: What I want you to tell me is .
. . just go back to when you were a little boy and tell me everything
you remember about bonfires.
Floyd Gravois: You see, we used to build bonfires
like this here. We get a lot of logs and everything and stack
up way high-fifteen or twenty feet-and we'd catch 'em in fire
at the bottom, and it would burn, burn a long time. We had a
piece of fire piled up wider than this room [approximately twenty
feet], about fifteen or twenty feet high. We'd sit there and
talking, talking to everybody, what we were like doing today,
all day today. We played marbles, we played baseball, and uh,
went swimming with a bunch of boys.
CG: Where did ya'll swim?
FG: In the river, right in that river. Yeah,
yeah, we used the river, it was shallow, and did all that. I
could tell you, oh lawd, I could tell you.
CG: Tell me about the bonfires. Ya'll did 'em
on Christmas Eve or all through the year?
FG: Yeah, we'd do it for Christmas Eve, then
Christmas Day and the next we might want to burn, burn for four
days. Burn 'em, burn 'em up and for New Year's Eve we'd burn
'em again.
CG: Did you have fireworks?
FG: Yeah. We didn't have plenty, but we'd have
some. We had Roman candles and some firecrackers, and it wasn't
much to buy. They come from over there where the Chinese and
Japanese . . . just Roman candles and some firecrackers.
CG: Daddy, when ya'll did the bonfires, did everybody
else that lived down the River Road do 'em too?
FG: On yeah, all my cousins and plenty [other]
people. . . .
CG: When ya'll collected wood, how long would
it take? . . .
FG: Yeah, all of us. All of us. Yeah, look we
used to go on the river, the river bank, by the levee, and we'd
haul it. We ain't had no, no, we mighta had a horse, but ain't
had no tractor. Nothing. We had to pack it, the wood, up to the
top of the levee from way up there to about a mile, and it might
take us a week. We'd haul all the wood and pile up, pile up,
pile up, make five big old stacks, you know, and we'd leave 'em
there until Christmas Eve, and then we'd light some of 'em. Christmas
day we'd light some, and for New Year's we'd light some more.
We'd burn 'em all. Yeah, then sometime we didn't build no fire.
Like it might have been twenty-four, twenty-five men, boys, piled
up there, and we'd keep on putting the wood and as it burned
out, we'd put some more. We'd light it up about six o'clock,
and we'd burn it until one o'clock, till Papa would call us to
come on in.
CG: Ya'll had a Santa Claus?
FG: Oh, we ain't had no money. . . .
CG: But you can't remember if PoPo taught you
how to do this?
FG: No, Papa didn't mess with us. We did it when
we got big.
CG: You don't know if PoPo did it when he was
little?
FG: Oh, I don't know, I don't. . . .
Unfortunately, Uncle Tuts
remembered nothing about the bonfires. Uncle Stump was the only
brother who never left the River Road; he still lives there in
the same house that my grandparents lived in. Although he remembers
the bonfires well and still participates (as an observer) in
those that his daughter's family does, he had only a few comments
to make about those from his childhood. Uncle Elmo, a natural
story-teller, remembered everything like it happened only yesterday.
His account was very much like my father's with only a little
additional information and a few different points of view. He
remembers that his older cousins (children of his father's brother
began making fires first. They lived only about five hundred
feet north of my father's family. Uncle Elmo assumes that both
of their fathers must have been making fires themselves as young
boys and passed the tradition to them. Differing from my father's
remembrance, he recalls vividly that girls always attended. "Oh
yeah," he says. "Everybody went to the levee. They
had a big drove of people out there.". . .
Many questions had been answered,
and, now I had no problem closing my eyes and picturing those
boys building bonfires. Next I wanted to learn about the tradition
in my generation, so I ventured out to visit my cousin, Lloyd
(Li'l Lloyd we called him), who lives with his father in my grandparents'
old home. Most of his forty-one years were spent on the River
Road except the few when he was in the service. This is the information
and insight he offered me:
We were pretty young when
I built my first bonfire. Walter [our first cousin] taught me;
he was the leader of the pack around here. He trained the white
and the black kids-the "scout leader." Where he learned
to build them? I don't know, maybe just saw somebody else when
he was coming up. We were pretty young and when Christmas time
. . . usually Christmas and New Year's was the time we built
them. We'd start two or three weeks before Christmas scrounging
wood, old tires, anything that would burn. We'd go behind the
levee, get in a little boat sometimes and go across the little
pond to the other side and cut wood. They had a little road that
went back there, and if we felt a little energetic, we would
drag a half a tree back. We'd go in the back of the house in
the woods back there with our ax and chop down trees, sometimes
cut 'em down and they were too big to drag back. We'd get back
there and go crazy, you know. We'd go back there for a few weeks
before. Every evening when we came in from school, we'd start
chopping down trees and try to carry it back if it wasn't too
big'cut it in the pasture or whatever. We'd go back like Davy
Crockett and chop down a tree. Sometimes the trees were too big,
and we'd go back days later and chop some of the branches off.
We also had a big bamboo patch all the way back past the slough
[low land filled with stagnant water], and bamboo was pretty
good for bonfires too because it made it crackle and pop and
all that stuff, you know. We'd spend a number of days dragging
bamboo back. Tires were pretty good too to burn. We'd go up and
down the road, a lot of black houses or families around here
usually had old tires in their yards. You could gather up a lot
of old tires. . . .
I don't remember anybody
else around here doing bonfires. I thought it was something we
thought of and nobody else did it. We'd build a fire at Christmas-it
was usually cold, and the fire would keep you warm, and you'd
get the sticks out to light your firecracker with. It was real
exciting. We were off of school, didn't have to worry about school,
and Christmas was coming. . . . [I]t was just a good feeling
being outside, you know, and uh, being together with a lot of
the family just like the Sunday used to be out here, you know,
when a whole bunch of ya'll came down. . . . I think it was [the
biggest day of the year] for us country people. It really was,
and you didn't want it to end, you didn't want the fire to burn
out, you know. You didn't want to come in. The fire wasn't really
burning on Christmas Day, just smoldering, you know, smoking.
The coals were still hot, but it would be gone by the next day,
and you'd go out and look at the burnt coals and the burnt ashes
and kind of reminisce about the week you took to get all this
wood and how you had to con people into helping. You know, it
was kind of sad the next morning when you go out and look at
the ashes-just like a birth and a death, sorta like people.
Lloyd's family continued
to build fires even after our grandparents' deaths. They were
the only family members still on the River Road, and the rest
of the family didn't go back on Christmas Eve. This tradition,
however, stood the test of time. Brenda Gravois Himel, Lloyd's
sister, introduced her husband Leo, to bonfires, and by the time
their four boys (Leo Jr.,, Bert, Travis, and Todd) were older,
it was time for them to take responsibility for the bonfire tradition.
They built bonfires almost every year except the few when they
moved away from the levee. I talked with Brenda, Leo, and the
boys recently and their stories don't differ much from the previous
ones. They say the fun is in the preparation; it pulls the boys
and their friends together for a couple of weeks like no other
activity can. The thrill, according to Bert, is watching it all
go up in flames. They still go behind the levee to gather wood,
but now they have tricks to help ease the load. Their earliest
fires were in the traditional tepee shape, but last year, they
built a log cabin, rich in fine detail. "The work isn't
hard," says Bert, "it just takes dedication."
"Will this tradition carry on into another generation?"
I ask. Leo says as long as he's around, because this thing needs
a leader, and he's it. Bert, spokesman for his generation, says
bonfires mean a tradition, a time to get together for more than
just a day-as long as he's around there will be bonfires. Brenda
has two grandchildren, and perhaps with a little direction and
inspiration from the older generation, they may take up the logs
and keep them burning on the levee in the spirit of generations
of ancestors.
Similarities are clearly
seen between the three generations of bonfire tradition and also
with the bonfire practices of the Lutcher/Vacherie area. Young
boys were in charge of preparation for and execution of the celebration.
Although adults may have been present as spectators, it appears
that the younger family members and friends were the actual participants
in the gala. I don't recall parents hanging around when we were
on the levee, and, as, Daddy stated, "Papa didn't mess with
us." Tepee-style structures were common throughout until
the most recent years, and building materials were virtually
the same-willows and other trees from behind the levee, bamboo
and cane, and rubber tires. The primary functions of the fires
were apparently the same: providing an opportunity for fun and
assuring that family and friends would come together. It also
appears that the continuation of the tradition was dependent
upon families remaining in the original places of bonfires-the
River Road. Family members who remained at Hohen Solms continued
the tradition, while those who moved did not.
Differences are more subtle.
For my father's generation, it is evident that the event was
certainly one of fun and joining together, but it also seems
to have been a time of reflection and celebration of the daily
activities that went on through the year. In my generation, bonfires
served more as a guarantee that the family members who had migrated
to other areas would come together and form a group once more.
Friends and "droves of people" were not part of our
bonfires. We shared the levee with no one but first cousins.
The third generation seems to have a combination of the first
two. Their bonfires pull together the family, but they also include
many friends with whom they have been active during the entire
year. Whatever the differences in memory or point of view, they
simply reflect the different ways in which the individuals perceived
their environment and their place in it.
I still do not know definitely
with whom this family tradition began. There is little doubt
that my grandfather and his brother were making bonfires, but
I suspect that my great-grandfather, Jean Baptiste, brought the
knowledge of bonfires with him to Hohen Solms directly from France,
from which he is said to have emigrated.
While interviewing my cousin,
Lloyd, I asked what he like about the River Road. He replied,
"I like the peace and quiet of being out of town. I like
to stay here with the spirits, you know." Yes, I know. My
project had brought me back to the land I used to visit and let
me live there for a while. I now know the spirits, and
when it came time for me to leave them on the River Road and
return to Baton Rouge, I felt very much like Lloyd did on Christmas
mornings. Something was born within me while the story-tellers
were making the fires roar once more, and then the end came,
a death, smoldering coals.
References Cited
Brand, John, and Sir Henry
Ellis. 1969 [1849]. Observations on the Popular - Antiquities
of Great Britain.
Detroit: Singing Tree Press.
Gaudet, Marcia G. 1984. Tales
from the Levee: The Folklore of St. John the - Baptist Parish.
Lafayette Center for Louisiana
Studies, University of Southwestern Louisiana., - Louisiana Folklife
Series, no. 1.
________. 1990. "Christmas
Bonfires in South Louisiana: Tradition and - Innovation."
Southern Folklore 47:195-206.
Kightly, Charles. 1986. The
Customs and Ceremonies of Britain: An Encyclopedia - of Living
Traditions
. New York: Thames and Hudson.
Pegg, Bob. 1981. Rites
and Riots: Folk Customs of Britain and Europe. Poole: - Blandford
Press.
Seignole, Claude. 1963. Le
folklore de la Provence. Parish: G. P. Maisonneyve et - Larose.
Shuel, Brian. 1985. The
National Trust Guide to Traditional Customs of Britain. - Exeter:
Web and Bower.
Van Gennep, Arnold. 1943-58.
Manuel de folklore francais contemporain. Parish: - A. et
J. Picard.
This article was originally
published in the 1991 issue of the Louisiana Folklore Miscellany and is reprinted
and edited with permission. Carol Gravois graduated from Louisiana
State University with a B.A. degree in anthropology.
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